June 11, 12, & 13

You might know I love to knit. You might not know that Nic is the most curious person in the world and sometimes he just picks things up and learns everything there is to know about that topic. He did this recently with wool. He has a pet project (quite literally, he is collecting dog hair to make into yarn).

He read this book and learned lots from it. I have not yet read it and therefore cannot comment on it. However because of this book Nic realized we were just a few short hours away from the Barlett Yarn Mill. So we did what all wool loving folk do and drove there. We did not look at their website for do really any research at all. Nor did we check their hours. We just went. For the record I do not recommend this policy. Sometimes you will drive the back woods of Maine through tiny towns to get to a mill and yarn store to learn that it is, in fact, closed.

The mill had a nice cat and some interesting yarn as seen through the window.

Thankfully this was just a pit stop on the way to our real destination: Baxter State Park. When Nic first came to the states he came first to Maine as camp counselor. He met lifelong friends (remember, we visited them last year in England?). He has lots of wonderful memories of Maine, one of which is Katahdin. As we planned this trip it was on his list of things he really wanted to do.

The Appalachian Trail either ends or begins with Katahdin depending on which way you are going.

To go to climb Mt. Katahdin one must also go to Millinocket, Maine. Being somewhat frugal and not wanting to pack camping gear all the way from Colorado, we reserved a hotel room in Millinocket. I pause here to remind readers that my family is from Caribou, Maine. We know Northern Maine. It is not like Northern Maine is stranger to either of us. I have spent summers in Caribou. Nic spent summers in Maine summer camp. But maybe we have forgotten? Or gotten old? Or soft?

Because Millinocket did not rock. It was very sleepy. The only restaurants that were open sold pizza, or were Subway. Most stores and restaurants are closed on Monday and Tuesday. We had planned our trip for Monday-Wednesday.

And then we checked into our hotel.

We were underwhelmed. We were also the only people staying in the hotel, and most of the time we were the only people IN the hotel, including staff. When we walked in the toilet paper holder fell off. The sink would not turn off. And then the shower broke and tub poured out water. Turns out, you get what you pay for. Although I had serious concerns regarding our wellbeing in such a hotel, we made it through both nights we stayed there without serious harm coming to either of us.

Katahdin is not a mountain for the under-prepared or out of shape despite what the liars on the trail tell you. Baxter State Park recommends that one plan for 8-12 hours to hike. With this in mind Nic and I woke up at 4 and drove with the dawn toward the gates of the park which open at 6. So we waited. Have I mentioned that it does rain in Maine? So we were really hoping for an early start to beat the rain. Instead we waited outside of the gate for the ranger to arrive.

At last we got our hike underway. It was the second hardest hike of my life. The only harder hikes I have done were the Bear Trips that Nic and I have done in Wyoming. This mountain kicked my ass - in glorious, fantastic, unforgettable way.

Thankfully I have been reading this book and meditated on some of the ideas in it.

"There is a ladder.

The ladder is always there

hanging innocently

close to the side of the schooner...

I go down...

I came to explore the wreck...

I came to see the damage that was done.

and the treasures that prevail..."

~ Adrienne Rich

In the 9.5 hours it took us to hike this trail I thought a lot about my family from Maine and their relationship with this mountain. Had they also climbed it? Did it hang on their horizon as a wise woman and looming presence? Or was it far off from their potato farms? I found a great deal of comfort (and pain) among her boulders. I felt that I was able to set down some of the heavy load I carry with me in my heart. Here in her shadows is a safe place, far enough away from me that I don't have to have them in my peripheral all of the time. And I know where to go if I need to find these memories. If, for some reason, I need to pull them up and revisit them, I know where they are. It felt like a tremendous weight has been set down.

The weather held for us, only sprinkling a bit on us here and there. We almost headed down before summitting, but insane people convinced us that 70 year old women had completed this hike and that we could handle some rain drops. I am convinced those people are liars. Nic is convinced they are telling the truth.

Nic really hoped for great views and to see more of Maine than the woods from the highway. He got his wish!