Asilah

June 20 ~ Summer Solstice

We drove from Fes to Asilah, a beach town on the shores of Africa. We are staying in cozy riad near the beach. I learned yesterday that riad means traditional home with a courtyard. I am a big fan of the riad. 

Nic is a big fan of people making espresso in the back of their trucks on the sides of the road in Morocco. Our drive was four hours long on winding national roads, not highways. Nic and I played chicken with the drivers of Morocco and have lived to drive another day.

We were tired when we finally arrived in Asilah. It is beautiful - and a little strange. We walked through the Medina, which was much, much smaller than Fes. I think Nic sort of expected another Fes experience, and has been a little let down. 

This Medina is much more touristy and artistic. It is fun to see tourists from Arabic countries do the same things Americans do - pose in doorways, look beautiful, and drink orange juice.

After having a good chat with Hamza and learning how difficult it is for Moroccans to get a visa, it makes much more sense the Moroccan people flock here to vacation. In the parking lot where we parked our car a mini amusement park had popped up. Trampolines with children bouncing, bicycles, and little motorized cars zoomed about with “It’s a Small World” blaring in the background. Half-finished sidewalks and half-built condos stood behind the ancient walls surrounding Asilah and protecting it from the sea. Morocco seems to be waiting. Waiting for the end of COVID, the end of the war, and the end of the drought for life to resume the way it had pre-COVID. Across idyllic sand and crystal blue water, trash blows. 

I had expected Asilah to be less conservative than southern Morocco, but have found the inverse to be true. I have seen more full burkas here than anywhere in Morocco, and fewer uncovered heads than in Fes. 

These pictures are just a few of the pictures I took in our first walk around as we got our bearings. I was also starving, which means I was not a good person when I took these pictures. 

Nic and I have not figured out food. Do not count on us for food advice when traveling. Nic needs very little food to exist. I need regular deposits of food, but I am also a pain in the ass and refuse to eat onions or meat. We are both cheap. Because Nic does not need food, he forgets that I do. At six thirty last night after eating only bread all day, I began to dissolve. I stamped my foot and said, “It is NOT unreasonable to want dinner at 6:30. Even if it is a Mediterranean country and the locals may not eat for another hour. I cannot wait another hour. I need food NOW.” I think Nic rolled his eyes. 

He then said, “Great. We will have another terrible meal.” 

And we did. Despite using Trip Advisor to send me to the best restaurants in Asilah, I ate more bread, potatoes, carrots and green beans. Nic ate four kinds of fish. To be fair, I think the holiday has impacted what people have on hand and their help. Many things are still closed. 

Tonight we plan to eat in the hotel and stay closer to home. Nic is tired from his driving excursions and we could both use a quiet day.

We have had a late morning today with lovely coffee in our courtyard under flowers and jasmine trees.  My goals for today include walking on the beach holding hands, and looking for seashells. Not a bad set of goals for the day, if I do say so myself.